lunedì 6 giugno 2011

TRIP DIARY: Bangkok to Ostia Lido overland trip 2010



THAILAND

9.3 - 12.3 BANGKOK, our trip starts here, me and Francesca left Sydney by flight (15hr) and here we could meet the second day with Lorenzo, and we started to organize our trip back to Italy, first rule, NO flights!
We stayed at New Joe guest house near "Khaosan Road", we visited around the city and we left the passports for the visa applications
13.3 - 15.3 KOH CHANG, by bus, ferry and ute (7hr) we could reach this beautiful island, we stayed at the Independent guest house and we shared our room with Marco, an Italian guy we met on the bus. This was our relaxing holiday between the white sandy beach of Sai Khao and the Khlong Phlu waterfall
16.3 - 17.3 BANGKOK, by ute, ferry and bus (12hr) back here for picking up our passports with Chinese and Vietnamese visa, and we stayed around the "red shirt" protests, where thousands of people were protesting against the government dictatorship asking freedom and democracy and tragically ended up by Thai's army few months later
18.3 Travelling overnight, by train "fan sleeper" from Bangkok to UBON RATCHATHANI (14hr)

LAOS

19.3 - 20.3 PAKSE', getting the Laos border by ute and minivan, we could get the visa at the border and paying a one dollar bribe to get the stamp and taking another minibus from the border to the city (6hr). We stayed at Nalin Thachaleun guest house and we met Jasmin, an Indian owning a restaurant there, he made the best chicken sandwich ever
21.3 - 22.3 DON DET, one of the hardest trip (8hr) taking a minivan and a boat crossing the Mekong to Champassak, where we visited the Khmer temple of Wat Phu, and then by tuk tuk and boat crossing for second time the Mekong, and taking a lift by a sugar truck first and private car after, and finally another boat to Don Det, one of the Laos four thousand islands (Si Phan Don). We stayed at Tho's bungalows and we went the day after at the waterfalls, Don Khong and we arrived at Cambodian border for seeing the Pink dolphins
23.3 PAKSE' , by boat, minivan and tuk tuk (3hr) and we caught a bus to Huè in Vietnam
24.3 - 25.3 DANSAVANH, after an overnight bus trip (7hr) where we broke a tyre and we were packed with lots of people, we have been stopped at the Vietnamese border for some visas problem, 2 days in this small village with no food and money, we found a room at Nha Tro guest house and we have been helped by local people giving us food, beers and teaching Lao language.

VIETNAM

26.3 - 27.3 HUE, by walk, minivan and taxi (5hr) finally in Vietnam, travelling with the most famous "mama contrabando" from Lao border, we stayed at Phon Lan guest house and visited the Dai Noi fort
28.3 DONG HOI, by train "hard seat" and walk (3hr) we met a strange Japanese guy at the station, we shared a room with him at Phong Trang guest house and we went at Nhat Le beach
29.3 - 30.3 DONG HA, by train "hard seat" first which had broke down at night, we met other 2 Swiss guys and together we walked in the dark rice fields for over an hour, and finally we could reach a road and find a bus with a strange driver smoking a bong all time and we could finally reach the city before sunrise (7hr) the day after we went visiting the DMZ during the war was the border line between north and south Vietnam
31.3 - 1.4 NINH BINH, by night bus (10hr) sleeping at Queen Mini hotel, visiting the city temple and the amazing Tam Coc
2.4 - 3.4 HANOI, by "hard seat" train (2hr) staying at Wing hotel
4.4 LAO CAI, by "soft seat" night train (9hr) we arrived here early morning, and we walked half n'hour to reach the Chinese border and waiting there few hours the opening time, after that we finally could reach Hekou, the Chinese border town and we went at the bus station

CHINA

5.4 KUNMING, by local bus (9hr), we stayed at Camelia hostel and we spend 2 full days around our first big and modern city in china
6.4 Travelling overnight by "sleeper" train to Chengdu (19hr)
7.4 - 12.4 CHENGDU, we went at the Sim's Cozy hostel, the starting point for arrange our trip and a group of 10 persons on the way to Tibet, it take us a while to arrange all the paperwork documents
13.4 - 14.4 Travelling by "sleeper" train to Lhasa (44hr) the longest trip i've evere made by train crossing the Tibetan plateau

TIBET

15.4 - 17.4 LHASA, staying at Lhasa International hostel, always strictly controlled by the Chinese army we could visit around the city centre, Potala palace, Jokhang temple, Sera monastery and the Tibet museum whit lot of propaganda
18.4 SHIGATSE, by bus (10hr) stopping on the way at the Yamdrok lake, Nancatse, Yantse, Baiju temple and the Kharola glacier (5560mt) and finally arriving at Tenzin hotel
19.4 EVEREST BASE CAMP, by bus (9hr) via New Tingri and the Dingri Quomolagma National Park, and once arrived there we slept overnight into a Tibetan tent
20.4 OLD TINGRI, by bus (6hr) early morning we did 1 hr trekking to reach the second base camp and enjoy a better Everest view, and then back to the bus and crossing the Plateau desert, we stayed at the Tingri Snowland hostel and here we had the chance to stay without any guide watching us and walk around the Tibetan desert for 2 days, maybe the best Tibetan experience
21.4 SHIGATSE, by bus (5hr) back here again at the Tenzin hostel
22.4 LHASA, by bus (6hr), back to the Lhasa International hostel, spending our last day in Tibet

CHINA

23.4 - 24.4 Travelling by train back to Chengdu (45hr)
25.4 CHONGQUING, by "fast" train (2hr) from Chengdu, sleeping at Tina's hostel and visiting around the city and the Yangtze river
26.4 Travelling by "sleeper" train (20hr) to Guilin
27.4 - 28.4 GUILIN, staying at the Flowers hostel and visiting the Shan lake, Solitary Beauty peak, Li river and Fubo hill
29.4 Travelling by night "sleeper" bus (15hr) to Zhuhai, the Chinese border to Macau

MACAU

30.4 - 1.5 CENTRAL MACAO, by bus (1hr) we slept into a brothel in "Rue Della Felicitad" as it was the cheapest place we found, visiting around Largo do Senado, Forteza, Church of St. Paul, fisherman's wharf, casino Lisboa and on the southern island Coloane village, Che Do Van and Hac Sa beach

HONG KONG

2.5 - 5.5 KOWLOON, by ferry from Macau (1hr) we stayed at Grand guest house inside the Chongqing mansion, the first independent building I’ve ever seen. We applied for the Russian and the second Chinese visas and we visited the Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong Island, Victoria peak, HK park and Lamma Island
6.5 Travelling by night "sleeper" train (21hr) to Shanghai, where we met 2 guys from Ostia and Fiumicino

CHINA

7.5 SHANGHAI, staying at Innjoy hostel one night and two full days, visiting People's square, The bund, Oriental Pearl tower, Yu garden and we went by train to Suzhou and we did a boat ride over Pingjiang canal
8.5 Travelling by night "standing" train (13hr) all night long without seats on the way to Beijing
9.5 - 13.5 BEIJING, arriving at Dreams Travel hostel after 2hr walk, here we arranged the Mongolian visa, and Lorenzo his trip in North Korea and we visited Tiananmen square, Forbidden city, Jingshan park, Hutong, Qianhai lake, Silk market, Mao's Mausoleum and the Great Chinese Wall at Badaling. Then we separate few days with Lorenzo and Me and Francesca we went to Datong
14.5 Travelling overnight by "hard seat" train to Datong (6hr)
15.5 DATONG, staying at CITS hotel, a smelly and polluted city but where we could visit the beautiful Hengshan Mountain monastery, Yungang Caves, a Great Wall section, Nine Dragon screen, Red square and the Datong park
16.5 Travelling by "hard seat" train (6hr) back to Beijing
17.5 - 19.5 BEIJING, back at the Dreams Travel hostel, and still visiting around the Egg opera, Temple of Heaven, Pearl market, Yashow market and The Village. We also met an Italo-Australian girl who lives there and invited us for dinner, the last day Lorenzo was back from North Korea and Francesca left china by flight back to Italy as she has to return back to her job
20.5 ERLIAN, after travelling by a "sleeping" bus (10hr), we arrived early morning and we went sleeping on the sly into an hotel over a coach first and then into the small Chinese army office at the border waiting the opening time

MONGOLIA

21.5 ZAMIIN UUD, we spend 6hr to cross the border, taking 2 different cars for doing less than 4 km, we get lost into the Gobi Desert then and we went to sleep into a small local hotel near the station, we have also been arrested by a cop somewhere in the desert, because he thought we passed by walk the border without visa
22.5 Travelling by "soft sleeper" train (16hr) to the capital city, at the station we also met 2 Spanish guys, Xavi and Andreu and we started travelling together around Mongolia
23.5 - 24.5 ULAAN BAATAR, staying at the Golden Gobi hostel, we visited Sukhbaatar square, Parliament building and the Gandan Monastery, here we also met Bolod, a funny Mongolian man owning an hostel and speaking about 10 languages Italian included, by him we could arrange the best wild trip around the Mongolian countryside with an UAZ-452, a Russian 4WD minivan, also an American guy, Nicholas, joined us
25.5 - 27.5 MONGOLIAN STEPPES, driving around for about 20hr in 3 days and sleeping in a yurt or doing a campsite, we met some nomads where we could do few hours of horse riding, hiking some hills and enjoying that beautiful landscape, we also went to the Genghis Khan springs and we saw the last day his  enormous statue
28.5 - 30.5 ULAAN BAATAR, back here this time at the Golden Gobi II hostel, me and Lorenzo left the other guys and we arranged our trip through Siberia
31.5 - 1.6 Travelling by "kupè" train (34hr) to Irkutsk in Russia

RUSSIA

2.6 IRKUTSK, via Ulan Ude, we stayed at the Admiral Hostel, visiting the city and by minibus (2hr) we went at Listvyanka on the Lake Baikal banks
3.6 - 4.6 OLKHON ISLAND, by bus and ferry (6½hr) staying at Nikita, and walking around Khuzir village and this island on the Baikal lake, one of the best spot on earth
5.6 IRKUTSK, back here by ferry and bus (6hr)
6.6 KRASNOYARSK, by night "platskart" train (18hr) walking to the Yenisey river and the Stolby nature reserve
7.6 NOVOSIBIRSK, by night "platskart" train (12hr) visiting the Ob Sea and Akademgorodok
8.6 TYUMEN, by night "platskart" train (18hr) staying around the city centre and Tura river
9.6 TOBOLSK, by night "platskart" train (4hr) where we could see the beautiful Kremlin
10.6 YEKATERINBURG, by night "platskart" train (11hr), visiting around the city centre, Iset river and the Church of Blood
11.6 KAZAN, by night "platskart" train (15½hr) visiting the centre, Kremlin, Kul Shariff Mosque and the Volga river
12.6 MOSCOW, by night "platskart" train (13hr) where finally we could relax after the transiberian trip, we stayed at the Red Star hostel-museum, and the day after we visited the Kremlin, St. Basil's Cathedral, GUM and the KGB headquarter
13.6 - 14.6 SAINT PETERSBURG, by night "platskart" train (7hr), staying at the Crazy Duck hostel we went to the Kazan Cathedral, Church of the Resurrection, Peter and Paul Fortress, St. Isaac's Cathedral and the Hermitage also know as The Winter Palace
15.6 Travelling by night "soft seat" train (7hr) back to Moscow, and we went to have lunch in at the Red Star hostel before leaving again
16.6 Travelling by night "platskart" train (13hr) to Kiev in Ukraine

UKRAINE

17.6 KIEV, where we stayed at Kiev Lodging, here we met 2 Dutch guys, Martijn and Joost, and we spent couple of days with them around the city centre, St. Michael's Cathedral and the Dnipro river
18.6 Travelling by night "platskart" train (10hr) to Odessa
19.6 - 20.6 ODESSA, staying at Tiu Frontpage hostel we had few relaxing days over the beach and around the Opera Theatre and the Potemkin Steps
21.6 Travelling overnight by bus (5hr) to Moldova

MOLDOVA

22.6 CHISINAU, the capital city, the only way to reach faster Romania from Ukraine, we spent the day around the city and the public gardens before taking our bus to Bucharest

ROMANIA

23.6 BUCHAREST, by night bus (14hr)we went to sleep to some Lorenzo's father friend's house, Dani, who showed us around the city, People's Palace and the Arcul de Triumf
24.6 Travelling by "seat" train to Belgrade (14hr)

SERBIA

25.6 BELGRADE, staying at Sun hostel and visiting the Kalemegdan Fort, Hram sv Save Cathedral and the Danube river
26.6 Travelling by night bus (8hr) to Kosovo

KOSOVO

26.6 - 30.6 PRIZREN, staying at Setki and Dani's house, one of the best and relaxing spot during the whole trip, they give us a really nice hospitality and Setki could show us with his red Ford Transit van around Prizren, Pristina, and the Sar Mountains and we could help him with his job
1.7 Travelling by night bus (13hr) to Sarajevo, passing again the border with Serbia first

BOSNIA

2.7 - 3.7 SARAJEVO, sleeping at Ljubicica hostel in a cheap 21 bed room, we visited around the old town, Military fortress and the famous Latin bridge
4.7 MOSTAR, by bus (5hr) in the Herzegovina region, visiting this beautiful city and then going back to Sarajevo to catch the next bus

CROATIA

5.7 SPLIT, by night bus (7hr) we saw the Diocleziano's Palace and the city centre and then we took a ferry to BRAC (2hr) where we spent a day here and around his village "Supetar"
6.7 ZAGREB, by night bus (5½hr) from Split, few hour stop over here before taking the bus to Slovenia

SLOVENIA

6.7 LJUBLJANA, by bus (2½hr), sleeping at DIC hostel we spent the afternoon around the centre

ITALY

7.7 TRIESTE, by bus (2½hr) arriving here early morning we could walk around the city, piazza Unità d'Italia. molo Audace and the fortress and feel the famous northern wind "la Bora" 
 8.7 OSTIA LIDO, arriving in Rome by "seat" train (9hr) at Tiburtina station, than taking the subway and the Lido-line train to "Lido Centro" station and taking the last bus "06 Line" finally back home!

We took 90 means of transport: 32 trains, 22 buses, 12 minibus, 9 ferries, 4 boats, 3 utes, 3 cars, 2 tuk tuk, 2 taxi and 1 truck. Travelling for a total of about 653 hours.